Today, I feel like I am only barely scratching the surface on the topic of tugging :)).
Why Does My Dog Need To Tug?
You may be asking yourself why the heck is tugging so darned important anyway? Personally, I believe all dogs should learn how to tug with their owners, but performance dogs in particular. Here are my top ten reasons why I think, without question, teaching your dog to tug is worth the investment of your time.
1. Distractions Become Insignificant While Training
Tugging is the easiest way to get your dog into a state of Peak Performance. Dogs in a lower arousal state tend to notice more “insignificant” things in their environment. It is not a wonder to me that the majority of dogs that I have seen that are “sensitive” or “fearful in certain environments” are also dogs that do not tug. If a dog meets distractions in a lower state of arousal he is more likely to register those distractions (and therefore gives him something to worry about). This is the reason I will introduce potential “scary” situations to my puppies while they are engaged in a game of tug.
2. Basic Level of “Don’t Wanna Don’t Hafta” Easily Worked Through
Tugging gives those of us that want to train without verbal or physical corrections, an easy way to teach our dogs that “you must do as I ask no matter what.” Once a dog rehearses “I don’t want to and I don’t have to” (or what I affectionately refer to as don’t wanna, don’t hafta moments) he learns that he always has choices when you ask him to do something. For example, you have a puppy in class and you want him to sit but he is straining at the end of the leash because he has decided it would be more fun to play with the dog beside him. If you include corrections in your training, you have the appearance of an “out” as you can physically intimidate the dog and “make him” sit at that time. That is not the kind of relationship I want with my dogs, plus this type of training develops a dog that does as you ask only when you are close enough to “make him.”
I use tug early on in my puppy’s life to get them to make the tough choices, “yes you may want to tug with this toy but I am asking you to tug with this new one” or “yes you may want another cookie but you must tug on this toy.” I purposely set up “don’t wanna don’t hafta moments” outside of any important training so my dogs learn at a very young age saying “don’t wanna” to me is never an option and in the future will make the tough decisions I want in my favour (i.e. I want to chase the squirrel but I hear my mama call so I won’t).
3. Weight Shift For Sports
Tugging is the first place you can encourage and grow a “weight shift” in your dog. A weight shift is a critically important skill to those of use doing agility as it makes weave entries, tight turns and driving into a stopped contact position much easier for the dog.
4. Distance Rewards
When your dog has great drive for toys you have more reward options while training. You have more flexibility when you are trying to reward behaviours away from you (like distance work, weave pole training etc).
5. Value for Responding While Working Away From You
If you only reward with food your dog will soon learn there is little value to be had when he gets outside of your “cookie throwing area.” If you try to make do by throwing a cookie container, it delays the reinforcement for the dog, thus delaying the learning. In addition, if you are just throwing the cookies many dogs learn to sniff the floor as that is where their greatest value traditionally comes from.
6. Encourages Drive
Tugging is the greatest reward for games of drive. It connects all reinforcement back to you. If you are throwing a ball as a reward, the greatest value happens when the dog is leaving you, chasing the ball and when he gets that ball, away from you. If you choose to use a food reward rather than tug to reward drive you run the risk of taking the dog out of drive as food can create a calming effect, again losing that state of peak performance.
7. Transfer the Value
For dogs who are not as keen on food, I can use tugging as a way to transfer value into food, turning the most anorexic dog into a “food obsessed” dog.
8. Simple Approach to Counter Conditioning
Tugging is a great way to condition the dog to the stimulus of touch. Get him aroused and focusing on the tug and then you can start to gently touch his shoulders, flanks, face . . . anywhere! Eventually, I like to build this up to smacking the dog (playfully of course, see video below) without him noticing. What purpose does this serve? Well the obvious, for dogs that have issues about being touched it is a great way to counter-condition that anxiety. But agility dogs tolerance to firm touching is an absolute must! Our agility dogs must confidently push through cloth chutes and rub their faces against weave poles. I had a 6-month set back in my weave training with one of my small dogs “DeCaff” before I realized it all stemmed from her not wanting to “touch” the poles with her face.
9. Focus for YOU!
Regardless if I never set foot into another performance ring again, tug would still be a pivotal part of my dog training for the following reasons. The first day a puppy comes into my household I start him tugging, it builds focus for me.
10. Learns to Work for What He Wants!
Next, I will build the puppy’s tugging up to a point where I withhold the tug until he “offers” something. This helps to build the understanding of contingencies to fun and my attention and how the puppy’s behaviour is what drives all of his reinforcement. Soon I will be asking that puppy to “out” and “get it” as I want. Teaching him there will be rules in my household no matter how much he wants something he must live within the boundaries of my rules. No need for any kind of intimidating or harsh training, my puppies learn to stop when I say stop and go when I say go with great focus on me, all learned from that game of tug.
11. Working Through Arousal
I know I said this was my top ten, but I have always been an overachiever so you get 11:). Eventually, I will purposely get that puppy into an “over-the-top,” frenzied tugging state and then ask him to sit or down. This game will help him to learn no matter how excited he gets chasing a squirrel or playing with another dog, he must always listen to what I want him to do. That understanding has the ability to save my dog’s life one day.
The Tugging Code of Conduct
Those of us who tug with our dogs in public carry a responsibility to abide by the unwritten laws of “tug etiquette.” Okay, maybe they used to be unwritten, but no more because here I am sharing my thoughts on good tug etiquette when tugging with your dog away from home.
Always keep your eyes on your surrounding environment when tugging. Sure glance back at your dog to occasionally interact and break off your tug game to initiate a new one, but your focus should be on what is happening around you. Is your dog’s tuggaciousness exciting dogs around him? Your dog is vulnerable while he is tugging as his focus is entirely on you and the toy. You need to be his eyes and watch out for other dogs that may break free from their owners to discipline your dog for having “too much fun” (we all know of dogs who feel the need to be the “fun police” don’t we?).
Mindless tugging is of no value to you or your dog, so be “in the moment” with your dog but also be “in the moment” of your surroundings so you can spring into action to protect your dog in the event of trouble. While you are scanning your surroundings be aware of dogs that may be entering the competition ring. If I was at an obedience trial I wouldn’t want to have my dog tugging with wild abandon outside the ring, that is just disrespectful to your fellow competitors. Likewise at an agility trial if your dog is a vocalizer while he is tugging, take your game away from the ring. Be aware of the dogs nearby or those just about to enter the ring and gauge how your game may be impacting their psyche. Again, err on the side of being respectful to all and showing good sportsmanship.
The Dangers of Tugging
Tugging is an amazing tool, as you can see, I would never raise a puppy without tug games but used incorrectly tugging can not only be detrimental to your dog training (due to the misplacement of great reinforcement) but more importantly dangerous to your dog. The key to tugging is to mimic the dog. Watch one dog tug with another it is more or less a game of hold on and sink your weight back into your haunches. Occasionally there may be a head shake from side to side, but the game is a far more passive between two dogs then most humans make it.
Take a look at the video. Look for the similarities between how my two dogs tug and how I tug with one dog alone. See if you can list the many ways each dog is using his or her body during the game of tug.
Try to mimic a dog when you tug . . . there is no need for you to spin, stir, shake, whip or bounce the dog around on the end of your toy when you are tugging. Doing so just adds an unnecessary risk of injury. For example, if you shake a dog up and down on a toy you are hyper-extending that dog’s neck a little with each shake. Our dog’s necks are built to have tremendous power from side to side, but not up and down. When dogs tug with other dogs you will never see one bounce the other up and down! If you are going to move the tug during your tug sessions with your dogs do it gently from side to side rather than “snapping” or jerking the dog abruptly. Likewise, I have seen people “spinning” their dogs by the toy and often I have heard a dog yelp and drop the toy during this kind of interaction. This leaves me to assume the dog’s weight was on his front end when his owner decided to spin the dog by the toy and twister or jarred the dog’s shoulder in the process.
That is not playing like a dog!
My primary interaction during tug comes from me chattering when I like what the dog is doing and by me using my free hand to engage with the dog through touch. I play a game I call “Smack da baby.” The game starts with gentle strokes all over the dog’s body gradually growing that into smacking the dog. Another way to make tugging safer is to use toys that are attached to a bungee. Bungee tug toys give and take with every tug, they are friendly to your joints and your dog’s neck.
Tugging is an amazing tool, that everyone should have available when training their dog. If you can remember to “play like a dog” you will always get it right!
Today I am grateful for how well Feature and Swagger still play together, I hope that never changes!
Update: We now have two more podcast videos on tugging that cover many of the questions asked here in the comments (and remember that our online programs are where our coaches are for your “specific to you” questions and would love to see your videos).
I have a 6m female aussie who shows little interest in tugging. She has several tug toys but when playing offers practically no resistance or desire to pull. When I pull, she just holds on and follows along with the toy. Are there any games I can offer her that would build a desire in her to play tug?
My almost three year old girl loves to tug, initially. After a very short time she prefers to bite the handle, just where it joins the tuggy part (sheepskin or etc) and actively separate the handle from the toy. This of course renders the tug toy useless but also distracts her from actually enjoying a game of tug with me. Any suggestions please team?
I have a 3 year old rescue Aussie mix. Have had her for a year. Lover her…she’s perfect. She has little interest in toys and I cannot get her to tug. I would love to engage her this way but she won’t hold onto anything I offer. She’ll mouth and play a little bit and chase a toy (sometimes) but the second I pull even just a little she lets go. She will try to hold it down with her paws, but not her mouth. Any ideas? She doesn’t seem frightened and I have seen her tug very briefly with during playdates, but never with me. We have started agility and I would love to add this as a reward!
A leather- rag tug worked wonders for my 6mo Aussie! He was the same 🙂 Don’t leave it alone with the puppy/dog though… only for tug!
My dog will tug at home, use it at the end of games and training sessions in house. I can not get him to tug outside or in other venues.
My MAS loves to tug but always wants to get up near my hand. How can I get him to stay on the end of the tug toy?
Our Ripley does this too. I’m still learning old, not a Trainer, would appreciate a response from the experts! My thought is that we should stop the game right when they touch our hands & keep sessions short, try to help our pups understand that the game will only continue when they interact with the toy. Does that sound right DogsThat Team? What else can we do or not do?
Me three. My MAS inches up near my hand and I have to constantly move my hand to the other end. I think this is not ‘proper’ per Susan’s instructions for tug and I might unknowingly be teaching him a ‘bad’ behavior?
Any help from the team for insight into the right way to combat a tugger who likes to be near your hand would be appreciated. Thank you!
Would you aldo recommand this for a retriever? They should be soft in the mouth, and never tug in game with another dog….
I have an 8 year old that is food drive….she does tug but how do I switch her reward from food to tug?
Here is a fun podcast by Susan that might help you make a transition! https://dogsthat.com/podcast/55/
All my tugging with my dogs (labs)over the years finally caught u with me – in week 12 of very painful shoulder rotator cuff surgery right now.
When I was young and in good health, I played tug with my dogs and enjoyed it. Now that my shoulders have arthritis and various other problems, tugging is not something I can do. Is there another exercise or substitute for tugging that might work to the same purpose. –I know I can’t be the only “dog person” who has fragile shoulders. 🙂 Any suggestions would be welcome.
Were you ever replied to as I have similar problems combined with weak wrists & fingers and very poor balance so tugging is impossible! Please let me know?
Hi Helen, you can use a bungee tug toy and step on the end. Engage your dog, let them connect with the toy and then from your hand put it under your foot so they can play tug with you but without jeopardizing your hands/fingers. You can also engage your put from a seated position this way as you shared your balance is off. Bungee toys are toys that have elastic inside the handle that allow for some “give” when playing. Some great toys here for you: https://www.4mymerles.com/product-category/say-yes/
Recently adopted a 9 mo. old deaf male dog to join our 2 year old female. Same size dogs; knew each other for months before new one came into the home. Playing tug the other day & though I have been monitoring play, I turned my back & something happened that cause one of them (I believe the existing 2 year old) to snap at the new dog & we ended up in an all out fight. Now my 2 year old is scared & timid, & I’m scared to death to let them near each other & play. I have removed all toys that could start a tugging war. But I don’t know what to do!
Thank you very interestng read. I am just setting out on my agility journey with my lab via cross, she loves it but get super excited and starts jumping and puppy nipping my clothes and arms halfway through when changing arms or stopping…food n tugging not being in the ring…any suggestions…she is 3 and just won her 1st rosette..😁🐾
Thank you. Loved this really got me thinking.
I have a very active border collie (Loki, 3) who as a result can be quite nervous however he is getting better now that we have moved and he has 7 acres to roam in whenever he wants. Although he is still a massive scaredy-cat when it comes to most things especially when compared to my other border collie (Koda, 3 1/2) and patterdale terrier (Maze, 2).
Loki loves to play tug (it comes in close second to fetch), but he will still get distracted by anything, even if it is just someone putting a cup down on the table (albeit slightly loudly). Koda – when he plays – if also easily relatively easily distracted but then he is not really an active dog so doesn’t play much anyway. And you can’t distract Maze from a toy even if you actively tried (but then i have always put it down to the fact that she is tarrier).
I was just wondering what you thought, I am doing a foundation degree in canine science and was hoping for your opinion on the matter, and of my dogs.
Thanks
I’m interested in opinions on above as well. I have a border collie with similar issues – maybe not quite as noise sensitive, but gets distracted with trucks and mechanical noises, and looses interest in fun when she hears them.
My dog used to like tugging but she doesn’t any more… I’ve been driven crazy trying to figure out why however, after reading this post I now know exactly why! Over time (after watching many dog training videos of B.C.s tugging furiously with their handlers) I had started spinning, yanking, and bouncing my dog. But you can be sure I won’t do any of those things any more! My grateful thanks to Mrs. Garrett!!! <3
Currently have a rescued Belgian Mal. He of course loves tugging. But at time when we play he begains to make a growling sound. I immediately have him “out”. He does listen and is not aggressive when he “out”s. My question is, is it normal for a growl during tug? Or should I continue to take the tug away afterwards.
Susan,
I have a Labrador female who is a field trial dog and have recently started doing agility with. No matter what I do or what toys I try I CANNOT get her to play tug with me. She will hold something but will not pull on it. What tips do you have for getting a dog started with tugging when they show no interest in it??
I love this article Susan. I use tug so much in my training. I have hunting dogs. I have a 12 for you list. As you said tug games is a topic in itself. I do a tug release game to teach self control for that pray drive. I will put them on a sit, down or stand stay. I then wiggle and jiggle the toy to build the tension and drive. they have to wait for the release to engage with the toy then drop on comand back into a sit position. It is also a great game to work on those power down’s
My dogs love tugging and The thing I hate most is to see people tugging and moving the dogs head up and down, good to see youbrought this up as well – people listen to you. susan!
I use tug with Finnegan, who I’m training to be my service dog, several times a day. Finnegan tugs to remove my jackets & other clothing items as well as using tugging to open/close doors. Finnegan’s favorite games are tug related and can keep him focused on me.
A great option for dogs who love this game. Border Collies are often so intense, it sure makes them easy to teach. I have 4 dogs and none really tugs. I am trying to motivate my two trick dogs into it, but I don’t think they will ever find it more valuable than a bit of pepperoni. I want to learn more about this to see if it can be valuable for many of my trick class students.
These are great tips. I was thinking about getting a puppy but I want to be prepared first so I have been doing puppy training research. With the last dog I had I wasn’t a great trainer, that is not going to happen this time around. Thanks for sharing.
Wow! You give some great advice here. Thanks for sharing this to us.
Really great video and tips, thanks for sharing!
I signed up for your newsletter, but too late to get the April 2012 edition. Is is possible for this to be sent to me? I’m very interested in developing the “tug” behavior with my aussie (squirrel loving) mix.
What was the answer to Jill’squestion? 🙂
I too would love a copy of that newsletter, pleeeze.
My dog grabs the tug and starts backing up pulling with great strength ! She is so strong it would take a weight lifter to hold on !!
How can i improve our game ?
I am working through your advise in getting my dogs to tug. All my dogs are rescues and two of them have no desire for toys so I am trying to build up that desire.
I have a question Susan. One of my dogs- Bindi- when I call her to eat moves very slowly toward me and food dish. My other dogs run to it. When I call her to come, I have asked her to sit and leave it until I release her to eat. So apparently she isn’t thrilled with this idea, I am guessing because she doesn’t move quickly toward the food bowl.(she always complies and waits very well until released, its her getting to me that is slow in this area)
Every time she doesn’t move quickly and I release her to eat her food, I think it is telling her she did a fine job. Do you have any suggestions for me. What can I do to encourage her to move more quickly?
She is not overweight, and usually is quick to respond to my commands. And she loves what I feed her.
I am puzzled. Any suggestion?
Thanks sharon empson,
Our dogs are hunting spaniels that compete in field trials. We do not allow tugging or tug with them as it is important that they maintain their soft mouths. These dogs can deliver a bird without hurting it or having it peep. Soooo…. do you think we are too cautious and should tug with them? I have been using food (beef and chicken) as a relationship builder.
Lisa
Please accept that not all dogs like to tug, just like not all people like the same things. I taught my Vizsla to tug. She would initiate tugging, and looked like she enjoyed it. But she only tugged if I had food on me or near by. She’d much rather play an odd tag game we invented together – that she’d play anytime I asked with or without food around.
@Diane, with carefully placed triggers I have found that all dogs can be taught to realized how much fun tugging really is! But we have found that trying to teach the “love of tugging” by using a food reward doesn’t always work out. If you were going to try it the dog must never know you have food on you or near by.
How do you get the dog to take the tug and hold it the first time?
This dogs rewards were running flyball, food, finding birds or other animals, our funny tag game, thigh messages or praise. She lived to bring me game (birds, small mammals – preferbly still alive). She thought retrieving non-game outside of flyball was a waste of time.
I love all the interesting topics you cover SG The 10 Critical Cores have really helped me understand how my dog reacts, especially the fear factor, my girl very seldom knocks a bar but if I do or someone else or wind she just shuts down and wont go near a jump so now to work out a poa thankyou again